Tunnels and Tolls

During our three weeks on the road, I have passed through more tunnels than during the rest of my life, and I grew up regularly going through the trans Hudson Lincoln and Holland tunnels. Their presence was fortuitous, since the car really labors during ascents. Each countries' tunnels have their own character, style and hazards. When we entered the Alps we passed through a series of French tunnels that were well marked and lighted. However, many were one lane in each direction so you got headlights in your eyes.

The granddaddy of all tunnels is the tunnel under Mt. Blanc. You enter in France and after 12km you exit in Italy. Very well-lighted, two lanes in each direction with two tubes so no lights in your face. Lots of signage warning drivers to maintain safe distances, but I was surprised that changing lanes in the tunnel was permitted. It used to be administered jointly by separate French and Italian authorities. However, there was a fatal fire in the tunnel in 1999 that was exacerbated by the Italians pumping oxygen into the tunnel during the fire, so now it is administered by a single independent agency. The only drawback is the toll -- one could eat for a month on that fee.

We travelled through lots of Italian tunnels, a few as long as 6km. They were very good, well-lighted, multiple lanes and had great reflectors around the curves. As a group, the best of the bunch.

Then it slowly began to go downhill. A few tunnels in Slovenia where the lighting was not strong.

Croatia had lots of tunnels most of which were in good shape and not too long, but very curvy with good reflectors embedded in the curb.

Bosnia was different. Not a reflector in sight and very weak lighting. The tunnel walls were jagged rock.

Serbia hit rock bottom. The tunnels were not lit. Absolute darkness! When you first entered you could not see anything. The walls are jagged rock and had lots of water dripping. I am surprised that there is not carnage in those tunnels.

Bulgaria had few tunnels on our route, but the ones we passed through were seemingly very old and poorly maintained. Many lights were not working and they had narrow lanes going in two directions.

Things rebounded in Turkey where the tunnels are up to western standards.

Toll roads in France and Italy were very good and uncrowded, probably due to their very high tolls.

We did not drive on any toll roads during our short passage through Slovenia.

Croatia has a growing network of toll roads that are very good, very empty and even more expensive than their western European counterparts

Bosnia had no toll roads and for most or our wanderings in Serbia we could not find a toll road. I longed for one to get me out of there. When we finally found the Belgrade Sofia road, it was not only very good, but incredibly cheap.

Bulgaria did not have toll roads, but had one partially completed, excellent. road to Turkey.

Turkey has some very good toll roads. However I am afraid they are going to land me in jail here. There are no tickets at the entrances. Only unmanned gates, some showing signals (no English in the signage) for what I think is a transponder, which I do not have, and others with a quarter radio frequency signal which I have gone through without setting off any alarms or police chases. The same situation is present when we exit the road.  I suspect that a picture of the license plate is being taken and we will be billed at the car owner's home. But that is in France and we won't be there for awhile. So we will see what happens when we try to re-enter Turkey in July.

We have repeatedly sought information on how to pay the Turkish tolls, but have not gotten any information. If anyone knows the answer please let us know.