Slow Road to Split

Friday May 8, the 12th day. Checked out of our Rovinj apartment with the intent to get out early. i had a packed itinerary, but nothing worked according to plan. We started late, partially our own fault, but then we had a long discussion with our hostess. She invited us into her residence and discussed the wars, (they did not directly impact her or her family, but many Croatian refugees from the fighting came to this area), the breakup of Yugoslavia, which she still found very strange, her extremely limited travel, she has been off the peninsula only a few times and then to Split and Dubrovnik, and her dislike of Pula, too big and chaotic for her. Picked up some lunch goodies and gasoline (much more expensive than in the US) and left. Traveled directly across the peninsula on a toll road, but it soon became one lane and we were stuck behind two trucks. Lots of mountains so we were averaging about 75km/hr and the Twingo does not have the power to pass two trucks.

The region is very green with trees growing out of and covering the mountains. As we passed Rijcka (a big port city on the other side of the peninsula), it dawned on me that there would not be enough time to carry out the plan to go to the Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is described as a three-star attraction, and make it to Split at a reasonable hour, or at least before dark. Once it gets dark it is very hard to find these guest houses on the first trip.  So we kept on going, first on the A-6, which had directions to Zagreb, which made me nervous since we were not supposed to be going in that direction, but ultimately on the A-1 south to Split, along the cost, but also inland -- all the while racking up huge tolls.  Ate our lunch goodies at a rest stop. There we encountered some women selling big hunks of local cheese. I was not inclined to purchase any and there was no common language, but after many samples (it was worse than eating the freebies at Costco), and lots of sign language, we purchased a kilo of smoked cheese (the better to last without refrigeration) for about $18. Still eating slices of it.
Lots of empty land in Croatia. As we sailed down the toll road at 140km/hr (no tickets yet and others, usually in BMWs were going faster) we decided to go to the Krka National Park. $18 to get in (they would not accept my senior pass to US National Parks) but a terrific visit. It has great waterfalls, colorful shimmering water, lush vegetation and, as described by my traveling partner, erotically active frogs. The waters cut a deep valley into the limestone rock. Also saw the millworks and power plant that previously occupied the site at the falls. I staggered into the water for a dip but was restrained by the rocky underwater footing.
  
Resumed our drive to Split after a 3-hour park interlude and arrived at dusk. Our guesthouse is on an impossibly small, deadend ally (that is being generous) and fortunately we were spotted by our host who approached asking if we were his American guests. A single guy who offers one room. He set up the place as if he was doing it from an instruction manuel. He provided us with beer and wine (locally grown and made by his friend), stocked Turkish coffee to be prepared on a hot plate (turn if off, he counseled, so as to not burn down his house), has several porn channels on the cable package and promised us sweets the next morning as the continental breakfast. It is close to Old Town and has parking and good internet. A novelty is an open bathroom (not shared) that faces the entryway. Stayed up late deciding where to go after Split and then making reservations.