Independence Day

May 18

We arrived in Samsun about 8:30 Sunday night after a long drive. The GPS was working, but it had a strange way of counting the exits on the roundabouts so we had a few wrong turns and the final approach to the hotel was a confusing maze; but on balance it was 100% better than the prior evening. We stayed at the Neba Royal Hotel.  Contrary to advertisement, no English was spoken here, but the desk clerk spoke French, so we muddled by.  The US credit cards did not work so we agreed that we would pay Turkish cash the next day. The hotel was bland and fine. It was a business hotel and it had a very nice breakfast. No character and no opportunity to speak with anyone.

The hotel was close to the waterfront. After entering our room, checking out the view of the harbor and the Black Sea and opening the window, we heard lots of noise and music, as if a parade were occurring. We went downstairs and found ourselves in the middle of a pre Independence Day celebration. May 19 is Turkish Independence Day and it carries special weight here since it was from Samsun’s harbor that Ataturk launched the revolution. 

There were lots of dancers, whirling dervishes, drummers and musicians, but the most striking was arial luminairals that were being lit and lunched by many attendees, They were orange paper cones with a light metal frame at the bottom which contained a reservoir of fuel. When that was lit, it created hot air that lifted the structure. Scores of these were being lit and were floating upward, in some instances hundreds of feet, creating a strange image of these orange objects languidly floating above us.

The drummers were very loud and active. After they broke up we spoke with one. He told us about the history and advised that this was just a rehearsal for the main event in two days. However, he also informed us that a Turkish national election was imminent and that the Turkish President, Erdogan would be speaking in town the next day. He added a very colorful epithet after referencing the President.

In Samsun I could not change money at a bank and had to find a money changer. That was hard to do since the main square and surrounding streets were largely blocked off due to the President’s imminent arrival. Finally got some lira, took a walk in the harbor area (lots of orange debris) and unsuccessfully sought a Tourist office to help us with our tolls issue. We followed the signs but no success. I think all the tourist offices have been closed.

As we entered the main square to get back to our car, we were caught up in the preparations for the President’s visit. We ended up with Turkish flags and a hat, which I think celebrates Turkish youth sports day, but fearing gridlock we left before the President arrived. 

Samsun is a big city and port. The road on the way out of town was lined with heavily armed soldiers. And was well-decorated. When we passed the airport turnoff, though, that all disappeared. We drove east along the Black Sea. A great bike path, but very few beaches and those that existed were very rocky. I did not see one person in the water. We had lunch in Unye at a restaurant along the shoreline. I found a free parking space. As we left the closed tourist office, two young men approached us in the square and tried to help. First time that has happened since Ireland visit.

We resumed the drive along the coast and missed the one sandy beach on the coast. We arrived at our hotel in Giresun before dark. The Giresun hotel was a disappointment. Our first real dud of the trip, but the price was ok as was the breakfast. Our window was partially obscured by a gigantic Turkish flag. It was on the waterfront, but that was all industrial. It was across a footbridge crossing the main highway from Atapark ,which had the obligatory statute of Ataturk. We walked up (steep) the pedestrian main street, which was very alive well into the evening. Ice cream for dinner.