Sunday May 10
Left Split. Before we left our host provided us with a warm cheese danish type food. He was very excited about it and it was obviously one of his favorites. He described it as cheese with something extra. It was best described as a giant blintz on steroids. Very heavy and filling.
He was an extremely attentive and helpful host. Checked out the car's fluids, assisted in backing the car out of a very narrow space and alley and gave us detailed directions for taking a driving tour of Split. We followed the directions and had a nice tour of Split outside the old city. Lots of people going to church, but the city was not shut down. Commerce even on Sunday.
I then followed the street signs for Dubrovnik expecting them to put us on the tollway; instead we were put on the coast road. Except for time, that turned out to be a good mistake. The road and the drive were spectacular. More dramatic and greener that the drive on PCH along the California coast. It had mountains jutting up to the sky, cliffs dropping off to the ocean, villages hugging the cliffs, sparkling, clear blue green water and islands off the coast. The drive was lots of curves and shifting -- almost, but not as challenging as the Amaifi Coast.
Then the borders. Apparently about 600 years ago the Dubrovnik Republic, which at the time was very prosperous (salt trade which was then worth its weight in gold), powerful with the third largest navy in the Mediterranean, and semi democratic, was fearful of big bad Venice which was then moving down the Adriatic coast. So it gave 5 miles of coastline north of its territory to the even bigger and badder Ottoman Turks on the valid assumption that even the Venetians would not take on the Turks. So 600 years later Bosnia still rules that strip of land. So on the drive to Dubrovnik you first go through Bosnian immigration. They gave a cursory look at our passports, but did not give us a stamp (I thought about demanding a stamp, but stifled that thought.) So then we drove into Bosnia. Different language, architecture, money, even a feel for the place. The Croatian coast is very green and undeveloped. In this small slice of Bosnia there is massive development with buildings clinging to every inch of the cliffs. I suspect they have lower prices and taxes. Some Croatian hot heads have proposed and gotten started a project to build a 1.5 mile bridge to the adjacent Croatian island to circumvent Bosnia. In Bosnia the road signs are in both Bosnian and Croatian. However, on many signs one or the other group has blackened out the language of the other group on the road sign. Maybe they can adopt english as a neutral language.
We ate lunch in Milo Ston, at the base of the Peljesac Peninsula, a long finger into the Adriatic. Wonderful outdoor eating next to a peaceful harbor. They provide oyster pinics. The seafood was terrific, but the waiter seriously advised us against drinking the tap water, cautioning that he could not be responsible for the results. So we bought the water, but I pilfered another unopened bottle from an adjoining table whose party (old car enthusiasts) had departed.
We drove into Dubrovnik by later afternoon, but Google could not get us to our guest house, Villa Dorma. Finally called and got directions. We are on a steep hill overlooking the Old Town. Walked over there and had to descend a very long and steep stairway into the city. Emerged into the bright sunlight onto the main street and saw a banner for the upcoming Dubrovnik half marathon.
Dubrovnik is a very old and walled city. Most of it was destroyed by an earthquake and fire in 1667. There are a few buildings that remain from the pre fire period, but most post date that event and many seem to be of identical style. No big glorious palaces like in Venice. Lots of scenes from Game of Thrones have been shot here and the actual "Iron Throne" is on display along with lots of GoT's items for sale. Danced under the stars to a two-piece band accompanied by an expat US singer.
Left Split. Before we left our host provided us with a warm cheese danish type food. He was very excited about it and it was obviously one of his favorites. He described it as cheese with something extra. It was best described as a giant blintz on steroids. Very heavy and filling.
He was an extremely attentive and helpful host. Checked out the car's fluids, assisted in backing the car out of a very narrow space and alley and gave us detailed directions for taking a driving tour of Split. We followed the directions and had a nice tour of Split outside the old city. Lots of people going to church, but the city was not shut down. Commerce even on Sunday.
I then followed the street signs for Dubrovnik expecting them to put us on the tollway; instead we were put on the coast road. Except for time, that turned out to be a good mistake. The road and the drive were spectacular. More dramatic and greener that the drive on PCH along the California coast. It had mountains jutting up to the sky, cliffs dropping off to the ocean, villages hugging the cliffs, sparkling, clear blue green water and islands off the coast. The drive was lots of curves and shifting -- almost, but not as challenging as the Amaifi Coast.
Then the borders. Apparently about 600 years ago the Dubrovnik Republic, which at the time was very prosperous (salt trade which was then worth its weight in gold), powerful with the third largest navy in the Mediterranean, and semi democratic, was fearful of big bad Venice which was then moving down the Adriatic coast. So it gave 5 miles of coastline north of its territory to the even bigger and badder Ottoman Turks on the valid assumption that even the Venetians would not take on the Turks. So 600 years later Bosnia still rules that strip of land. So on the drive to Dubrovnik you first go through Bosnian immigration. They gave a cursory look at our passports, but did not give us a stamp (I thought about demanding a stamp, but stifled that thought.) So then we drove into Bosnia. Different language, architecture, money, even a feel for the place. The Croatian coast is very green and undeveloped. In this small slice of Bosnia there is massive development with buildings clinging to every inch of the cliffs. I suspect they have lower prices and taxes. Some Croatian hot heads have proposed and gotten started a project to build a 1.5 mile bridge to the adjacent Croatian island to circumvent Bosnia. In Bosnia the road signs are in both Bosnian and Croatian. However, on many signs one or the other group has blackened out the language of the other group on the road sign. Maybe they can adopt english as a neutral language.
We ate lunch in Milo Ston, at the base of the Peljesac Peninsula, a long finger into the Adriatic. Wonderful outdoor eating next to a peaceful harbor. They provide oyster pinics. The seafood was terrific, but the waiter seriously advised us against drinking the tap water, cautioning that he could not be responsible for the results. So we bought the water, but I pilfered another unopened bottle from an adjoining table whose party (old car enthusiasts) had departed.
We drove into Dubrovnik by later afternoon, but Google could not get us to our guest house, Villa Dorma. Finally called and got directions. We are on a steep hill overlooking the Old Town. Walked over there and had to descend a very long and steep stairway into the city. Emerged into the bright sunlight onto the main street and saw a banner for the upcoming Dubrovnik half marathon.
Dubrovnik is a very old and walled city. Most of it was destroyed by an earthquake and fire in 1667. There are a few buildings that remain from the pre fire period, but most post date that event and many seem to be of identical style. No big glorious palaces like in Venice. Lots of scenes from Game of Thrones have been shot here and the actual "Iron Throne" is on display along with lots of GoT's items for sale. Danced under the stars to a two-piece band accompanied by an expat US singer.
Sounds like you're having the fantastic adventure you were looking for. I like the Tourtered Language and Borders title. At first I thought you were having trouble typing until I read the blog. A lot of things sound tourtered indeed, but interesting anyway. I've been told that Dubrovnik is beautiful. Your description of walking down a long and steep stairway into the Old Town adds to the ambience even if there are no big glorious palaces. Thinking about the big bad Turks also adds to the excitement.
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Could you briefly summarize what the wars with Serbia were about? or is it religion as usual?
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