Saturday October 27, 2018 Day 5
We ate breakfast at the hotel. It was a very nice and extensive buffet. Good hot chocolate, but no bagels. Expensive, but good enough to keep us going into the afternoon. We arrived when there was only one other diner, but when we left it was full.
We took off for western Paris on the Metro. One transfer and a 25 minute ride. I had read an article in the International NY Times by a writer who walked around the exterior of Paris. One of his recommendations was the Museum of Immigration. Off the beaten path and not crowded. Walking from the Metro exit to the museum we saw a much different Paris that in the downtown area. Less affluent, fewer tourists and not as many restaurants. Plus there was a street level light rail line that is not mentioned in the guidebooks.
The building that houses the museum was build in 1931 as part of an exposition celebrating the French empire. Overshadowed perhaps by the British empire, the French empire was also extensive with large holdings in West and North Africa and Southeast Asia, as well as lesser outposts in the Middle East and the West Indies. The exposition, seemingly similar to a world's fair, had exhibits from most of the parts of the empire, (I did not see anything from Syria or Lebanon) as well as several countries, including the US. However, along with a large sculpture across the street, the art deco exhibition hall was the only permanent structure. The exposition seemed to celebrate France's role as a protector and civilizer of the colonies while at the same time taking for granted the colonies' contribution to French wealth and culture. It was almost as if the latter was treated as an entitlement, provided in exchange for former. I got a hint of that in some of the historical museums I visited in the Netherlands last year and I imagine similar feelings about colonialism existed in Great Britain, Portugal, Spain etc.
The entry fee for the museum is 6 euro. (nowhere in France have I found discounts for seniors.) There is an aquarium in the building's basement but we chose not to go there or pay the separate entrance fee.
The building has gone through several changes in use since the exposition and has been dedicated to its present use since 2007. Virtually all of the art from the now former colonies has been transferred to the Musee Du Quai Branly (we visited that a few years ago). This museum is more of a historical record of the building, the exposition, immigration to France and the impact of immigration on France. Although I had a very general awareness that France, particularly since its Revolution had been a haven for political refugees and dissidents, I had no knowledge that for centuries it had taken in large numbers of immigrants, in recent decades sometimes exceeding over 3 million a year. That at times has exceeded the number of immigrants absorbed by the US and represents by far a greater percentage of the population. The mix of immigrants has changed from eastern European, to southeast Asia, (Ho Chi Minh was educated and lived in Paris in the 1920s.) to north African and now increasingly sub Saharan Africa. That is evident from the faces that one sees in Paris, particularly in the many service and hospitality jobs. We witnessed a performance art performance on the main floor from an upper floor.
After several hours we departed. We took the Metro, again one transfer, to meet the granddaughters (minus one who opted for a friend) and daughter, as well as a step grandson on the Champs Elysees. The former were coming from a hop-on hop-off bus tour and the latter from work. All were late as we waited outside the designated restaurant, really a pricey pastry shop. When we finally connected we went up the street to Le Drugstore for coffee and hot chocolate. It seems so frivolous paying very high prices for these drinks just so you can sit in a fancy place on a fancy street, but I imagine it is what many tourists do.
With the granddaughters we went to a movie on the Champs Elysees and saw A Star is Born in English. Apparently many movies are shown in France in English without subtitles. Better than I expected and two very good performances. Then we walked for a bit and had dinner at an Italian restaurant. We then dropped the girls off at the house and walked back to our hotel.
Outside the Museum
We ate breakfast at the hotel. It was a very nice and extensive buffet. Good hot chocolate, but no bagels. Expensive, but good enough to keep us going into the afternoon. We arrived when there was only one other diner, but when we left it was full.
We took off for western Paris on the Metro. One transfer and a 25 minute ride. I had read an article in the International NY Times by a writer who walked around the exterior of Paris. One of his recommendations was the Museum of Immigration. Off the beaten path and not crowded. Walking from the Metro exit to the museum we saw a much different Paris that in the downtown area. Less affluent, fewer tourists and not as many restaurants. Plus there was a street level light rail line that is not mentioned in the guidebooks.
The building that houses the museum was build in 1931 as part of an exposition celebrating the French empire. Overshadowed perhaps by the British empire, the French empire was also extensive with large holdings in West and North Africa and Southeast Asia, as well as lesser outposts in the Middle East and the West Indies. The exposition, seemingly similar to a world's fair, had exhibits from most of the parts of the empire, (I did not see anything from Syria or Lebanon) as well as several countries, including the US. However, along with a large sculpture across the street, the art deco exhibition hall was the only permanent structure. The exposition seemed to celebrate France's role as a protector and civilizer of the colonies while at the same time taking for granted the colonies' contribution to French wealth and culture. It was almost as if the latter was treated as an entitlement, provided in exchange for former. I got a hint of that in some of the historical museums I visited in the Netherlands last year and I imagine similar feelings about colonialism existed in Great Britain, Portugal, Spain etc.
The entry fee for the museum is 6 euro. (nowhere in France have I found discounts for seniors.) There is an aquarium in the building's basement but we chose not to go there or pay the separate entrance fee.
The building has gone through several changes in use since the exposition and has been dedicated to its present use since 2007. Virtually all of the art from the now former colonies has been transferred to the Musee Du Quai Branly (we visited that a few years ago). This museum is more of a historical record of the building, the exposition, immigration to France and the impact of immigration on France. Although I had a very general awareness that France, particularly since its Revolution had been a haven for political refugees and dissidents, I had no knowledge that for centuries it had taken in large numbers of immigrants, in recent decades sometimes exceeding over 3 million a year. That at times has exceeded the number of immigrants absorbed by the US and represents by far a greater percentage of the population. The mix of immigrants has changed from eastern European, to southeast Asia, (Ho Chi Minh was educated and lived in Paris in the 1920s.) to north African and now increasingly sub Saharan Africa. That is evident from the faces that one sees in Paris, particularly in the many service and hospitality jobs. We witnessed a performance art performance on the main floor from an upper floor.
After several hours we departed. We took the Metro, again one transfer, to meet the granddaughters (minus one who opted for a friend) and daughter, as well as a step grandson on the Champs Elysees. The former were coming from a hop-on hop-off bus tour and the latter from work. All were late as we waited outside the designated restaurant, really a pricey pastry shop. When we finally connected we went up the street to Le Drugstore for coffee and hot chocolate. It seems so frivolous paying very high prices for these drinks just so you can sit in a fancy place on a fancy street, but I imagine it is what many tourists do.
With the granddaughters we went to a movie on the Champs Elysees and saw A Star is Born in English. Apparently many movies are shown in France in English without subtitles. Better than I expected and two very good performances. Then we walked for a bit and had dinner at an Italian restaurant. We then dropped the girls off at the house and walked back to our hotel.
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