October 6, 2017 Day 5 Friday Hague 3
I finally got a
reasonable amount of sleep, but only because we went to sleep early. I still
got up early, albeit at about 5
and went down to the darkened lobby for an early start on breakfast. However, I
had enough energy to get
moving early, about 8:00, and went out with my spouse on the #1 tram to the Peace Palace, the
Vredespaleis. It is a large older, big building surrounded by well landscaped
grounds. Unfortunately, I
could not be admitted to the palace because I was not attending any event there
and I could not even go
the displays at the visitor center since that did not open until 10. So much
for the advantage of an
early start.
I decided to ride the #1 tram out to its other end of the
line to Delft and try to go to the Vermeer center. For the first time I got out
of a commercial, business, cultural or upper-class neighborhood. The houses
were decidedly less attractive and the storefronts were very plain. Still the
neighborhoods were not shabby or run down. Indeed, they were very tidy. I spent
some time talking with a young woman who turned out to be a college student.
She said that even though tuition was free, she still needed to work to pay her
expenses. She said that she was from a small town, (I cannot pronounce it or
remember it) in eastern Holland near the German border. She expressed a dislike
of the Germans and then abruptly got off the tram. Toward the end of the line
the neighborhood got greener and the houses were no longer all attached. We
traveled along a large canal and I saw several woman’s groups exercising
outdoors on the banks of the canal even though it was cool, gray and misting.
Toward the end of the line I was approached by a rail worker who was speaking
in Dutch. There were very few people left on the tram and apparently, they were
asking where I was going. I really did not know other than to say the end of
the line, so there was a lot of confusion, at least on my part. The tram
stopped short of the end and all got out, so I did the same. The tram then
moved forward and then back up on to a side line and prepared to come back in
the opposite redirection. At the suggestion of a waiting passenger I got on, but I never did get to go to the end of
the line. The other passenger worked as a civil servant in the government in water management. He claimed that the Dutch have the most advanced water management technology and systems in the world and is the country best equipped to deal with the anticipated rise in sea levels due to climate change notwithstanding that it is the lowest lying country in the world. He was also very angry at the US, and seemingly me for his perception that the US was not doing enough to prevent climate change. I couldn't disagree with him, but he was so passionate that it was hard to get a word in.
We got off at my usual stop. He went off to the government complex and I went into De Passage. It was
mentioned in to some publication as the first indoor mall in the world. It had
lots of very upscale shops, most of which were just opening and some cafes. I
had a hot chocolate since it was getting very cool. After walking through it I
saw the Los Argentines, steak house restaurant that we had intended to go to
the prior evening. Very close to our hotel. By now it was raining, and I had
not brought my umbrella, but I was wearing my rain coat, so I skirted along the
sides of the Binnenhof to stay out of the rain. The Dutch just walked or biked
right through it, usually with no umbrellas or hats.
I got back to the hotel just before 10:00 so I had a second
breakfast, the waitress asked why I had returned, before heading out with my umbrella to The Hague Historical Museum, Haags Historisch
Museum, a few blocks from the hotel. 10-euro entry. It was somewhat interesting and had a lot of interactive exhibits
about the origins of the city, how its development was spurred by the construction of
canals, most of which have now been filled in and how it has repeatedly been refreshed by immigrants. Lots of art
work showing the burger misters. As in
the US, the city’s population declined during the 70s and 80s, but it has
rebounded this century.
I then set out for the Escher gallery. I had seen an exhibit
of his work when I was in Rochester, NY and found it very engaging. I walked
through a small forested park along the Lange Vijverberg, a street for the rich
to stroll along in the old days. Then I saw the US embassy. I knew that I
shouldn’t do it, but I saw no police around so I walked up to the gate (it was
not open and locked) and took some pictures intending to send them to my diplomat son. Out
of nowhere (I later saw the elevated guard shack) a policeman appeared and
wanted to know what I was doing. He requested my ID. I produced my passport and
driver’s license and explained that I was just an American taking a picture of
our embassy and intending to send it to my diplomat son. Eventually he returned
my documents and let me go. He was very polite, but it was sort of scary.
Then went to the Escher. It is housed in the former winter
palace of Queen Emma, the regent from 1890-98 after her elderly (she was 40
years younger than him) husband, the king, (and the last male Dutch monarch for
over 100 years) died, and before their daughter turned 18. The house was as
interesting as the exhibit. The exhibit had many works showing Escher’s unusual
view of space and relationships. I stayed there until it closed.
I then took a ride on the #17 tram which I had seen often.
It loops around the downtown area so I got to see that area. Went back to the
hotel and waited for the spouse to arrive to go to dinner. Tonight, we went to
the Argentinian steak house. When we arrived, the downstairs was full so we
went upstairs which was empty when we arrived. By the time we were finished it
was full. We just had steak and soup. The steak was fabulous, and the soup was
pretty good too. Returned to the hotel, did some packing and went to sleep.
The Embassy
De Passage
Forested Park
Government Complex
Escher
Escher
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