November 2, 2016
To any readers who stumble upon this site, welcome back, or just welcome.
This will be a renewed, but much shorter series of observations of overseas travel, albeit with no borders beyond the US border.
Some of you, as I was, were expecting this to be about observations about Iran. I was very much looking forward to to seeing and experiencing the differences and paradoxes that society presented. The US is the Great Satan mantra that almost daily emanates from there was very different from my few hours encounter with a group of Iranians last year in eastern Turkey.
Alas, it did not happen as the Iranian government denied us entry visas. No reason given and no appeal possible. Maybe they think we are spies.
In any event, we had to revise our plans. After almost two weeks in the Loire Valley relaxing post Nepal spent primarily cooking, eating three times a day, running to counteract the eating, slowly trolling the Internet and playing Wii (ask someone with kids if you do not understand that reference) with step grandkids, we took off on the A 10 in the ancient Twingo for parts south in France, initially Bordeaux.
What was supposed to be a 4 hour trip ending in daylight, was delayed, took much longer and ended in darkness. Initially inertial lethargy slowed our movements, then lunch appeared, so we had to eat, and thus we had a delayed departure. My client could not accommodate a time change for a conference call so I had to take that call at a rest stop on the toll road with my papers spread out on the dashboard and a computer in my lap. That consumed over an hour, rush hour traffic getting into Bordeaux (it was worse going out), the usual getting lost, notwithstanding talking GPS, in the maze of now darkened streets in the center of a European city and the time change (one week earlier in Europe) resulted in a post sunset arrival. No parking either, so I was urged to and did park on the sidewalk for the night.
The rest stops highlighted one of many differences between France and the US. The rest stops in France are plentiful and well maintained (we stopped at three, one because my client changed the time of the call at the last minute). Somehow it is considered a social good in France to tax (I assume through the very high toll road fees) to support such amenities. I recall Arizona a few years ago shutting down all its highway rest stops due to lack of funds. Arizona is a large state. Driving across it without going to the bathroom requires an iron bladder which no kid and many adults do not possess. Yet many in the US are unwilling to tax for such purposes.
We stayed at the ChamBres a Bord'O Bed and Breakfast. Nice location just outside of the city center, but very close to a tram stop and a pleasant walk into the center if desired. Small, four rooms and run by a former accountant who also owns a B&B in Morocco. Following unloading and check-in we walked down a major street, Avenue Thies, into a plaza housing a giant blue lion statute at the entrance to the Pont de Pierre, the oldest of Bordeaux's many river crossing bridges. It was built in 1842. It was beautifully lit up even in the fog at night by a necklace of street lights.
After pursuing many menus, we settled on the Cafe du Port for dinner. It extended out into the river and after the fog lifted we had a nice view of the bridge and the city lights. Monkfish and duck were our choices. Very good along with the local wine. Tomorrow off to the city!
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