June 16 and 17 Jaipur
We left Alwar Bagh hotel fortified by a good breakfast and began the drive to Jaipur. The drive was southwest, largely along back county roads so progress was slow, although we saw lots of cows, goats and peacocks. Even without the animals the frequent speed bumps before and after villages, and at other random spots slowed travel time.
We arrived in Jaipur about 12:15 along the street Nirwan Marg, close to the Chandpol Gate to tbe Old City leading to the Chanpol Bazaar. (It becomes difficult to know where you are when you are being driven everywhere.) We had lunch at a multicuisine restaurant on the second floor of a seemingly under-maintained building. The food was pretty good, but until the end of our meal we were the only patrons in the restaurant. We were later joined by an older bearded American in a Harvard tee shirt.
Up until this point I was disappointed by my initial impressions of Jaipur. I had been told that it was an exciting and colorful city that is the capital of Rajasthan State and an heir to the wealth, power and knowledge of its former rulers, the mighty Rajputs who through military might and deft alliances, had avoided subjugation by the Mughals and the British. So far I had seen no evidence of that, only trash and chaos, worse than in Delhi.
A word about the Rajput states rulers. The British actually directly ruled (through a cadre of Indian civil servants who were managed by the British India High Commission) only about half of India. The other half, "princely states", was nominally ruled by scores of Maharajas, Kings and Princes with whom the British had treaties under which the British controlled foreign affairs and received payments. At partition the princely states were given the options of: joining either Pakistsn or India, or remaining independent. As a guide told us, India essentially told these states that they could join voluntarily, get slapped in the face or get invaded, (that is what happened to Kashmir and Hyderabad). The Rajput states negotiated an agreement under which they would join India, but the rulers would retain their titles and property holdings, and receive annual stipends and seats in Parliament. However in 1975, as part of her Emergency Decree, Indira Gandhi voided the agreements and stripped these rulers of their seats and stipends. They retained their empty titles and property. Many have moved to London.
However, after lunch we drove into the Old City through a towering Gate. Everything within the Old City is painted in salmon. This was done in 1876 at the direction of the Maharaja to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King George VII), and now property owners are required by law to maintain their property in this color. They have done a good job.
Then we drove to our hotel, the Samode Haveli. (A haveli is a big residence, but since it is not owned by royalty, it cannot be called a palace. However, depending upon the owner's wealth, some havelis exceed the grandeur of palaces.) This Haveli was magnificant and our stay there was fabulous.
The alley leading to the haveli entrance gave no hint of the beauty of the facility. (Pictures inside the facility showed that in the 1930s the facility was bounded by a large grassy area.) There were grand steps leading to the entrance, after which one passed into a courtyard that had an adjacent open-air living room. We descended into a larger inner courtyard that had a large pool and hot tub. An adjacent building had a spa. Our room was a suite (off season, there were not many guests) that is larger than most NYC apartments. The service was superb and the landscaping was beautiful. Monkeys played on the grounds and a variety of birds were present. It was a wonderful oasis from the heat and chaos of the city. If I had to live in India I would want to live there.
After meeting our local tour guide, he took us to Jantar Mantar. This is a large outdoor observatory that was built by the city's founder and ruler (he came to power at age 11 upon the death of his father) Jai Singh in 1728. It looks at first glance like a collection of large, odd sculptures. However, it is a collection of finely calibirated devices that tell time to within two seconds. There are winter and summer sundials and large astronomical instruments that precisly tell the time, when the suin is shining. He built five of these in India, but this is the biggest and best preserved.
Then we walked to the City Palace, which is the fomer urban home of the king and still houses members of the royal family. It is a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture and contains a complex of courtyards, gardens, public buildings and residences. Now there are museums, art and clothes shops, and an armoury housing an exhibit of weapons. One of the kings was over 400 pounds and almost 7 feet tall. His clothes were enormous, but although he had 4 wives, he had no children. Draw your own conclusions. One payback. The palace had two really enormous silver urns. They were used by the Maharaja on his trip to London to carry water. He said that English water would make him ill.
Then went to a rug-making operation. Interesting process with the men doing all the weaving and the women doing all the stitching. Bought a rug I did not need, but I bargained the price down to less than the Lonely Planet suggestion. The negotiation process is fun and I get lots of ice cold water or beer during the process.
We then went back to the hotel. Swam and had drinks poolside before dinner. We ate at the Glitzy Restaurant. We had a light dinner of soup, one main dish and ice cream. There was a young 3-person band that was teamed with two dancers. They played mostly Rajasthani music, but we were the only patrons for a while, so they tried some American tunes for us. The women dancers were elaborately costumed and really threw their hips around. Eventually they got us up dancing with them.
Breakfast the next day was order whatever you wanted. The fruit bowl was fabulous, a medley of melons, mango, papaya and pineapple. I also had a south Indian potato and cheese omelet type dish.
In the morning we went to Amber Fort/Palace. We rode up the ramp to the entrance on an elephant. Most of the way up we were badgered by vendors. This is a magnificent structure that combines Hindu and Mughal architecture. Construction of the structure began in 1592 and took 140 years to complete. Much of the structure is palaces and apartments fo the royal families. It is cleverly constructed to maximize air flow in the summer and retain heat in the winter. It also had an elaborate water system thst drew water from the lake below. It is built from yellow and pink sandstone and white marble. It has 4 major courtyards. The first was for public events. Women were prohibited from entering this area but could watch the proceedings through a latticed balcony. The second courtyard had a public assembly area and a temple for daily goat sacrifices. The third courtyard was the maharaja's quarters. It was designed so that he could visit a particular wife without the other wives knowing of the visit. (I cannot believe that the wives did not talk among themselves.) The fourth courtyard was the women's quarters, but they were only permitted to meet as a group in the central area. We purchased a history book and some postcards at the palace's bookstore and then returned to town.
There is a water palace that is built in the middle of a lake in town that looks like a large Venetian palace. We drove around the Old Town a bit and then were transferred to a bicycle rickshaw. The tour operators billed this as an environmentally sound way to travel. I suspect they just wanted tourists to have this experience. (We had already done this several times in Old Delhi so it was not a novelty.) Maybe this provides employment and income for those otherwise unemployable, but when I see these drivers all I see is stickmen. They labor in the heat in long pants and shirtsleeves and are incredibly thin. I tipped them well.
We then went to the Central Museum, not on the tour but I asked to go. It is housed in Albert Hall, a grand old, unair-conditioned building. It has an eclectic collection of Indian stuff, and for not apparent reason, an Egyptian mummy. We then went to the Hawa Mahal. This is commonly referred to as the Palace of the Winds. This is an impressive five-story, red sandstone colored, honeycombed lattice structure that was built in 1798. However, there is no there there. It is just a facade that was used to give the ladies a perch to watch proceedings from which they could not be seen.
Then had some street food (picked out by our guide to avoid gastronomical distress) for lunch. The best part was an Indian yogurt shake called lassi. It comes in many flavors, including chocolate and out in Jaisalmer, bhang (cannabis). Very refreshing and I started drinking several portions at breakfast
As we moved west into the desert, even though this area was never conquered by the Muslims and is overwhelmingly Hindu, they were always threatened by the Muslims, so the Rajputs started hiding away their women, both in private and also in public. Now virtually all the Hindu woman wear the scarf and veil.
We drove around new Jaipur a while and then jeweley shopping. Lots more negotiating finally to an agreement.
Returned to the hotel in the mid afternoon and just sank into the pool, welcoming the respite from the city and the heat. Had a liquid dinner.
We left Alwar Bagh hotel fortified by a good breakfast and began the drive to Jaipur. The drive was southwest, largely along back county roads so progress was slow, although we saw lots of cows, goats and peacocks. Even without the animals the frequent speed bumps before and after villages, and at other random spots slowed travel time.
We arrived in Jaipur about 12:15 along the street Nirwan Marg, close to the Chandpol Gate to tbe Old City leading to the Chanpol Bazaar. (It becomes difficult to know where you are when you are being driven everywhere.) We had lunch at a multicuisine restaurant on the second floor of a seemingly under-maintained building. The food was pretty good, but until the end of our meal we were the only patrons in the restaurant. We were later joined by an older bearded American in a Harvard tee shirt.
Up until this point I was disappointed by my initial impressions of Jaipur. I had been told that it was an exciting and colorful city that is the capital of Rajasthan State and an heir to the wealth, power and knowledge of its former rulers, the mighty Rajputs who through military might and deft alliances, had avoided subjugation by the Mughals and the British. So far I had seen no evidence of that, only trash and chaos, worse than in Delhi.
A word about the Rajput states rulers. The British actually directly ruled (through a cadre of Indian civil servants who were managed by the British India High Commission) only about half of India. The other half, "princely states", was nominally ruled by scores of Maharajas, Kings and Princes with whom the British had treaties under which the British controlled foreign affairs and received payments. At partition the princely states were given the options of: joining either Pakistsn or India, or remaining independent. As a guide told us, India essentially told these states that they could join voluntarily, get slapped in the face or get invaded, (that is what happened to Kashmir and Hyderabad). The Rajput states negotiated an agreement under which they would join India, but the rulers would retain their titles and property holdings, and receive annual stipends and seats in Parliament. However in 1975, as part of her Emergency Decree, Indira Gandhi voided the agreements and stripped these rulers of their seats and stipends. They retained their empty titles and property. Many have moved to London.
However, after lunch we drove into the Old City through a towering Gate. Everything within the Old City is painted in salmon. This was done in 1876 at the direction of the Maharaja to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King George VII), and now property owners are required by law to maintain their property in this color. They have done a good job.
Then we drove to our hotel, the Samode Haveli. (A haveli is a big residence, but since it is not owned by royalty, it cannot be called a palace. However, depending upon the owner's wealth, some havelis exceed the grandeur of palaces.) This Haveli was magnificant and our stay there was fabulous.
The alley leading to the haveli entrance gave no hint of the beauty of the facility. (Pictures inside the facility showed that in the 1930s the facility was bounded by a large grassy area.) There were grand steps leading to the entrance, after which one passed into a courtyard that had an adjacent open-air living room. We descended into a larger inner courtyard that had a large pool and hot tub. An adjacent building had a spa. Our room was a suite (off season, there were not many guests) that is larger than most NYC apartments. The service was superb and the landscaping was beautiful. Monkeys played on the grounds and a variety of birds were present. It was a wonderful oasis from the heat and chaos of the city. If I had to live in India I would want to live there.
After meeting our local tour guide, he took us to Jantar Mantar. This is a large outdoor observatory that was built by the city's founder and ruler (he came to power at age 11 upon the death of his father) Jai Singh in 1728. It looks at first glance like a collection of large, odd sculptures. However, it is a collection of finely calibirated devices that tell time to within two seconds. There are winter and summer sundials and large astronomical instruments that precisly tell the time, when the suin is shining. He built five of these in India, but this is the biggest and best preserved.
Then we walked to the City Palace, which is the fomer urban home of the king and still houses members of the royal family. It is a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture and contains a complex of courtyards, gardens, public buildings and residences. Now there are museums, art and clothes shops, and an armoury housing an exhibit of weapons. One of the kings was over 400 pounds and almost 7 feet tall. His clothes were enormous, but although he had 4 wives, he had no children. Draw your own conclusions. One payback. The palace had two really enormous silver urns. They were used by the Maharaja on his trip to London to carry water. He said that English water would make him ill.
Then went to a rug-making operation. Interesting process with the men doing all the weaving and the women doing all the stitching. Bought a rug I did not need, but I bargained the price down to less than the Lonely Planet suggestion. The negotiation process is fun and I get lots of ice cold water or beer during the process.
We then went back to the hotel. Swam and had drinks poolside before dinner. We ate at the Glitzy Restaurant. We had a light dinner of soup, one main dish and ice cream. There was a young 3-person band that was teamed with two dancers. They played mostly Rajasthani music, but we were the only patrons for a while, so they tried some American tunes for us. The women dancers were elaborately costumed and really threw their hips around. Eventually they got us up dancing with them.
Breakfast the next day was order whatever you wanted. The fruit bowl was fabulous, a medley of melons, mango, papaya and pineapple. I also had a south Indian potato and cheese omelet type dish.
In the morning we went to Amber Fort/Palace. We rode up the ramp to the entrance on an elephant. Most of the way up we were badgered by vendors. This is a magnificent structure that combines Hindu and Mughal architecture. Construction of the structure began in 1592 and took 140 years to complete. Much of the structure is palaces and apartments fo the royal families. It is cleverly constructed to maximize air flow in the summer and retain heat in the winter. It also had an elaborate water system thst drew water from the lake below. It is built from yellow and pink sandstone and white marble. It has 4 major courtyards. The first was for public events. Women were prohibited from entering this area but could watch the proceedings through a latticed balcony. The second courtyard had a public assembly area and a temple for daily goat sacrifices. The third courtyard was the maharaja's quarters. It was designed so that he could visit a particular wife without the other wives knowing of the visit. (I cannot believe that the wives did not talk among themselves.) The fourth courtyard was the women's quarters, but they were only permitted to meet as a group in the central area. We purchased a history book and some postcards at the palace's bookstore and then returned to town.
There is a water palace that is built in the middle of a lake in town that looks like a large Venetian palace. We drove around the Old Town a bit and then were transferred to a bicycle rickshaw. The tour operators billed this as an environmentally sound way to travel. I suspect they just wanted tourists to have this experience. (We had already done this several times in Old Delhi so it was not a novelty.) Maybe this provides employment and income for those otherwise unemployable, but when I see these drivers all I see is stickmen. They labor in the heat in long pants and shirtsleeves and are incredibly thin. I tipped them well.
We then went to the Central Museum, not on the tour but I asked to go. It is housed in Albert Hall, a grand old, unair-conditioned building. It has an eclectic collection of Indian stuff, and for not apparent reason, an Egyptian mummy. We then went to the Hawa Mahal. This is commonly referred to as the Palace of the Winds. This is an impressive five-story, red sandstone colored, honeycombed lattice structure that was built in 1798. However, there is no there there. It is just a facade that was used to give the ladies a perch to watch proceedings from which they could not be seen.
Then had some street food (picked out by our guide to avoid gastronomical distress) for lunch. The best part was an Indian yogurt shake called lassi. It comes in many flavors, including chocolate and out in Jaisalmer, bhang (cannabis). Very refreshing and I started drinking several portions at breakfast
As we moved west into the desert, even though this area was never conquered by the Muslims and is overwhelmingly Hindu, they were always threatened by the Muslims, so the Rajputs started hiding away their women, both in private and also in public. Now virtually all the Hindu woman wear the scarf and veil.
We drove around new Jaipur a while and then jeweley shopping. Lots more negotiating finally to an agreement.
Returned to the hotel in the mid afternoon and just sank into the pool, welcoming the respite from the city and the heat. Had a liquid dinner.
It sounds as if the pink city eventually lived up to it original advertising. It also sounds as if you had fun negotiating the purchase of a rug and jewelry. Not surprising really, given that you always loved negotiating agreements with the unions. As I recall, the Indians are extremely good as sales. I am quite sure that plying customers with cold beer on hot days goes a long way towards helping them close the sale.
ReplyDeleteI have been thinking that your travelling companion has been incredibly accommodating as you charge forth on this adventure. I hope you truly value her willingness to go along on this incredible journey. I am assuming, of course, that she hasn't abandoned you to your own devices yet. :))