Brookings OR to Caves Monument OR, via California

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No name trail

Rear of the Chateau

Start of No-Name trail

Lobby in Chateau

Capella in Azalea Gardens, Brookings

June 30, 2017 Day 26 Redwood Highway

Started the day with breakfast in Brookings at the Brookings Inn and Resort. The facility did not deserve that grandiose a name. Very mediocre breakfast with limited selection, but the staff was helpful, the price was commensurate with the accommodations and we got the car fully charged.

The motel was on the western outskirts of the town. We did not leave until about 9 and then we stopped for gasoline where the line was pretty long even with lots of pumps, and some shopping at the Fred Meyer. Picked up lunch food, a larger food cooler and some hiking shorts. A big sale and our last opportunity for purchases in no sales tax Oregon.

Brookings the town did not get a mention in travel guide. An undeserved slight. It has a milder climate than most on the Oregon coast with winter temperatures reaching as high as the 70s. Because of the mild temperature and abundant rain, there are flowers all year round. They claimed that 90% of the country’s Easter lilies are grown here. We went to the Azalea Gardens, a city owned 33-acre park. Nicely groomed, but the flowers were largely past their prime bloom. There was a Capella building in the park. That word comes from the cape that Italian soldiers wore and achieved honored status when one soldier cut his cape in half to cloth a beggar. The building was very nicely done in glass and wood and copper spires and created a peaceful setting. It is frequently used for weddings, only a $102 fee, and reminded me of the Wayfarers Chapel in Palos Verdes.   The park and building were donated to the City by Mr.  Elmo Williams, a film editor and producer. High Noon won him an Oscar for editing, among other movies. He and his wife lived in a coastal home in Brookings post retirement. She died in 2004 and the Capella was erected in 2008 in her memory upon her death with his child’s inheritance (probably not all of it.) He died in Brookings at age 102 in 2015. The docent was very chatty and informative. She and her late husband had retired there from SoCal almost 20 years ago and she loves it. Since her husband’s death she said that her children no longer allow her to drive to California. She pointed out that it is warmer and far less windy than the rest of the Oregon coast. A real booster for Brookings.  Another docent arrived and she had been there 34 years since retiring from San Francisco. She too was a Brookings booster, extolling the climate, easy life style and nice people. They both conceded that housing prices have been rising at an alarming rate.

The center city was a nice, long, prosperous looking main street, but after crossing the Chetco River we went to the harbor area. Lots of fishing and pleasure boats and restaurants along the boardwalk. We had some ice cream at a shop named Slug and Shots.

We then drove on Oceanview Drive to reconnect with the 101 south and quickly crossed into California at mile marker 363 on our way to the Oregon Caves National. This last stretch of the Oregon coast is the southern end of the “fabulous 50” miles where there are soaring green headlands one side and seascapes of cliffs and sea stacks on the other. The ocean water seems to be bluer and clear, albeit much colder, than what I see along the CA. coast. A nice place to take an extended vacation.

I should have taken route 197 east, but didn’t and then missed the turn on to 199, Redwood Highway. You enter the Redwood State and National Park (it is composed of several state parks which are enveloped within the national park) We quickly entered a stretch of road on 199 in the Park that is among the most beautiful I have ever driven. At times the road runs along the Smith River, but you are never far from towering redwood trees. It is aptly named the Smith River Scenic Byway. Not to be missed. This part is the Jedediah Smith Redwood park. He was the first white man to explore the northwestern part of California in the 1820s.     

We stopped for lunch and information at the Smith River NRA Visitor’s Center. We continued northwest on the byway passing through the Collier Tunnel and shortly thereafter crossing back into Oregon. It was only 12 miles from there to Cave Junction. This area seems to be very lightly populated and minimally developed, although in the 1850s it experienced a short-lived gold rush. Not much in Cave Junction, so after a short visit to the visitor’s center, we set out on route 46 to the Caves Monument. It was only a 20-mile drive, but it took almost an hour. We not only climbed a few thousand feet, but the windy road lead us through the dense forests that were like what we saw around Crater Lake.  

We arrived too early to get into our room at the Chateau. It was fully booked even though it is expensively priced. The Chateau is definitely a quiet retreat in an unusual setting. No frills rooms, no TV, no internet, but tranquil, especially after the day visitors for the Caves leave. I had some time to walk around and through the facility, as well as to talk with an official from the Oregon Caves Outfitters, a non-profit that operates the Chateau, as he was hitting me up for a contribution to the restoration fund. It was built in the 1930s with major assistance from the CCC.  There have been only minimal changes to the building since then. It is a six-story structure with a concrete foundation and a wood framed superstructure built over a small gorge through which a stream flows. Only the three upper floors are visible from the front entrance and only the two upper floors house guest rooms. The large fourth floor lobby is awesome. It has high ceilings, a huge double marble fireplace and enormous exposed wood beams and log posts. Large open wooden staircases connect the third, fourth and fifth floors. Large plate glass windows open the third (dining room) and fourth floors to the outside.

We went on an afternoon hike on the No-Name trail that began at the end of the parking lot. The license plates in the lot were from all over the western US and Canada. The trail took us about three miles into the gorge. Lots of switchbacks and green foliage. As I was attempting to cross the stream in the gorge at the base of a waterfall I slipped on the wet rocks and fell in. Amazingly my phone did not get wet. Very few people on the trail.

Our room was spacious, furnished in a Native American motif, but somewhat spartan by modern standards. We ate dinner in the third-floor restaurant, next to the stream that flowed through the Chateau. The meal was good. It was very relaxing sitting in the lobby where there lots of families.  Not able to charge up the car.  

June 29, Coos Bay to Brookings, OR

June 29, Thursday Day 25 Coos Bay to Brookings

Best breakfast of the trip so far. Tasty quiche and an apple (grown on the grounds) tarte. Of course, a good breakfast is to be expected at a Bed and Breakfast. Plus, since it was not the usual buffet that we experienced at hotels, I did not eat too much.

Ate breakfast with two Indian-American women. One is a fifth-year eye, nose and throat surgical resident in Philadelphia and the other a third-year medical student in Chicago. Not clear what their relationship is. The former was very poised and confident. She disputed the idea that it is good to restrict residents to an 80-hour workweek and felt that extended hours are needed on occasion to connect with their and be present for patients. She dismissed arguments of exhaustion and less concerned with work life balance. The latter was very uncertain, but she was concerned about work life balance. She seemed very unsure of her medical career, but she does not want to be a surgeon.

The owner was very chatty. After living in and leaving San Diego, “too crowded and too many taxes”, she has lived in Coos Bay for 16 years while owning the B&B. Now she is ready to sell it. She said it was a lot of work and the 100+ year old building required constant repairs. During her time in Coos Bay she has served on the City Council. The local politics are complicated. She said North Bend has adamantly refused to join Coos Bay and remains a separate town, as opposed to Charleston, where her lodging is located, joined Coos Bay. She also spoke very disparagingly about the owner of the restaurant we ate at the prior evening, Blue Heron, essentially labeling him as a government gadfly and an extremist.

The husband previously owned a Hinda Civic Plug-in and he purchased a home super charger which he claimed charged up his Honda in minutes. However, he was dissatisfied with the car and sold it. No need for his home charger so I bought it, for cash, at a substantial discount. It helped charge the car up to a full charge.

We traveled a few miles back north through North Bend and back across the McCullough Bridge to the Horsfall Beach entrance to the southern end of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. On the way in we saw a small army of people digging for oysters on the mudflats at low tide. Another observer told us that was a regular occurrence and that they sold their catch to local restaurants. Unfortunately, beach access was closed due to “high water”. We parked and began a walk on the dunes. Sand as far as the eye could see. Mountains of sand that were periodically interrupted by large and small ATVs wildly driving up and down the dunes. One rider was concerned that we were stranded and offered to pick us up. After I explained our walk he seemed dumbfounded that anyone would do that. He gave Karen a ride around the dunes and then after I had climbed on the front, he drove us back to the parking lot. Enough sand for me.

We exited the dune area and drove south, for the third time crossing the McCullough Bridge, but this time we drove down Empire Boulevard along the coast through Charleston. We encountered another road closure that cost us a 20-minute delay.

The Oregon coast is very green with lots of cliffs and offers spectacular ocean views. I think it rivals the best of the California coast. We first stopped at Shore Acres State Park. This was the former estate of the lumber baron Louis Simpson, who also developed North Bend. He took his father’s company and grew it into a large lumber, milling and shipbuilding empire. He built the estate in the early 1920s for his first wife, who died shortly thereafter. He remarried and winterized the property. Eventually his financial fortunes cratered and the property was given to the state.

The mansion no longer exists (bulldozed by the state as too expensive to maintain), but the private garden remains. It is beautifully landscaped and maintained and with a pond seems to incorporate both English and Japanese designs.  For me the highlight was a tour around the grounds by a Park Ranger. We walked along rugged, wave-smashed cliffs that seemed to be eroding as we watched. And that was in the summer. This is said to be a great site to view spectacular winter storms. At several sites along the cliffs, we saw and heard barking sea lions. The trail has been moved inland several times to accommodate erosion and the tennis courts can no longer accommodate a doubles game. We ate lunch at a picnic table on the grounds.

Cape Arago State Park was our next stop. This is the site of an island lighthouse and has had several iterations, the first one going back to 1866. The current one was built in 1934. We could see the lighthouse, but it is no longer active. Good spot to view the seals and the coastline.   

We drove further south along 101 and stopped in Bandon. This is a harbor town, but it is now most famous for the adjoining cranberry bogs and products filled with cranberry products. We parked adjacent to the harbor and walked along the boardwalk with views of the Coquille River. Lots of tourist shops. The area advertises championship golf courses on the dunes.

Continuing south we drove through the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge. Just off the coast there were numerous large and even gigantic rocks that comprise the refuge. We saw lots of birds and harbor seals.

We passed Port Orford, the westernmost incorporated city in the continental US and Cape Blanco State Park, the westernmost point in Oregon. We took a short detour and drove down to the lighthouse. It has been in continuous use since 1870, but the point of land on which it is situated was incredibly windy.

At Gold Beach, we crossed the mouth of the Rogue River. This is the longest wild, undammed river remaining in the US. There was a handsome bridge spanning the river. Lots of signs for Jerry’s Rogue Jets that offer white water trips on the river. No time.  South of the river the weather became warmer and the vegetation was marked by many more flowers. Further south we crossed the Thomas Creek Bridge, the highest bridge in Oregon. On its south side were trails leading down to the coast that were lined with Sitka spruce trees. We then drove through the Boardman State Scenic Corridor. 300 ft. Sitka spruce trees lined the road and there were lots of trailheads beckoning us down to the beach and spectacular coastline. Alas, no time to stop as darkness was approaching.

We pulled into the Brookings Inn Resort about 8:30. Not much resort there, although it did have an indoor pool. Not open late or early. After several false starts we got a first-floor room from which we could charge up the car. We walked a short distance and picked up dinner at a Subway that we ate in the room.      

Oregon Dunes

Shore Acres State Park

Sea Lions sun bathing

Japanese Garden Shore Acres

Rogue River

Boardman Scenic Corridor

June 28, 2017 Florence to Coos Bay

June 28, 2017, Day 23 Florence to Coos Bay

The breakfast was offered in a cramped lower level room, but if one was willing to carry the breakfast upstairs, you could get a bigger room and a nice view of the river. The breakfast was just OK. After breakfast, we walked through a riverfront park near the Inn and then drove around the town to locate the post office.

We then drove north on 101 about 12 miles passing several beach access roads, to the Sea Lion Caves. These two large caves are the only known hauling out and rookery area for wild sea lions in the mainland, continental US. The sea lions and pups were visible from the cliff hanging out on the rocks and swimming. However, the site is very commercialized. It has a very large gift shop (which has good fudge) and then offers an expensive elevator ride to get a closer view of the lions. We passed on that and resumed driving north passing Devil’s Elbow State Park, through the Cape Creek bridge and tunnel and then the Heceta Head Lighthouse.

We pulled off the 101 into and parked in the Carl G Washburne State Park. He was a former Oregon Highway commissioner who donated the bulk of the land for the 1100 acres for the park. We walked around the part of the park that was west of the 101. It had a swamp like quality with think underbrush and trees that were twisted into tortured shapes.  Then crossed the highway to hike along a gorgeous trail on the east side. The forest was very green. It had tall trees, several ponds and tunnel like areas and at one point opened into a pleasant meadow.  Very different from the woods on the west side of the highway. Unfortunately, near the end and before we reached the Hobbit Trail which lead to the Lighthouse, the trail was closed due to a bridge reconstruction. It looked as if we could safely cross, but instead we turned around and took a different loop back to the highway crossing.

We ate lunch at a picnic table overlooking the beach and then took a walk on a windy, broad beach that had a lot of driftwood. That was a common feature of the beaches in Oregon and northern CA. because of the winter storms.

Returning to the car we drove south on the 101 retracing our morning drive, but stopping only at the Heceta Lighthouse viewpoint to take some to take some pictures.  This lighthouse houses Oregon’s most powerful beacon whose lens was built in England. The keeper’s living quarters have been converted into a B&B, but I could not get a reservation there. Drove over the Siuslaw River Bridge and passed by the Dunes Recreation area due to time and no desire to rent and ride around on a dune buggy. I would have liked to have rented a canoe or kayak and paddled around the estuaries that were regularly present in the area.

After passing through Reedsport and over the Umpqua River Bridge (a swing bridge span) we turned off 101 into Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. We were too late for the lighthouse tour or museum, but we took in views of the dunes, river and the Winchester Bay from the whale watching platform. The Lighthouse was opened in 1894, the first one at that site was toppled over in a storm, and is still operated by the Coast Guard and flashing out a red and then two white beacons every 15 seconds.

After returning to 101 we resumed our drive south to Coos Bay without any additional stops crossing over the majestic McCullough Bridge that guarded the northern entrance to North Bend. We easily found our lodging at the Old Town House B&B on Newmark Street. It is an older, freestanding building near the water. The house was filled with lots of furniture and nick knacks. Our bedroom had a four-poster bed that was high and required effort to get into.

We drove into downtown Coos Bay for dinner. The town was founded in 1854 as Marshfield named after the founder’s hometown in Massachusetts. It was renamed in 1944 to Coos Bay by referendum. I could not learn why.  It is Oregon’s largest coastal city. It lies next to the largest natural harbor on the west coast between San Francisco and Seattle. A century ago vast quantities of timber were cut from the Coast range and were milled in Coos Bay and shipped around the world.  Today, with dwindling lumber reserves and very few mills that seems to be largely gone, although it is still an active port. The harbor had lots of what seemed to be fishing craft.

We parked in a very desolate downtown and walked on the boardwalk along the waterfront along Bayshore Drive. There were lots of interpretive displays that emphasized transportation’s role in the natural and human history.  We ate dinner at the Blue Heron Bistro. Lots of German food and many beers on tap. Good meal at reasonable prices.

June 27,2017 Day 22 Bend to Florence – Mountains to the coast via a National Forest and McKenzie Pass

No breakfast at the motel, so we headed out to Sisters, OR, 20 miles northwest on route 20. On the way, there were nice views of the Three Sisters Peaks, Faith, Hope and Charity.

Sisters looks as if you have stumbled into a faux Old West town. That is not be chance. We were told that the town’s regulations strictly enforce an 1800s style architecture giving the place a frontier flavor. Western store fronts, art galleries, restaurants and seemingly plush accommodations lined the main thoroughfare, route 126. This looks like a place that attracts affluent urban runaways who want quaint.

We opted to eat breakfast at La Magic Sisters Café and Bakery. We were able to eat outside. A leisurely breakfast with good food. Picked up a delicious brownie.

Rather than take the more direct and Google Maps recommended route, we went south to the McKenzie Pass scenic highway, route 242. Highway was an overly generous characterization of the road. However, it was truly scenic. Shortly after leaving Sisters we entered the Three Sisters Wilderness area and the road snaked through a thick green forest as we climbed up to McKenzie Pass, elevation 5,324 ft. At the Dee Wright Observatory, we were afforded panoramic views of the Three Sisters, Mts. Washington and Jefferson (this time from the south as opposed to the view from the north when we were on Sherrard Point on Larch Mountain in the Columbia River Gorge.) and volcanic formations. Met some fellow travelers there and discussed the virtues of various places in Oregon.

Shortly after the Observatory we turned off on to a dirt raod and parked at a trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail. Walked about 1.5 miles out on the trail over some spots that still had patches of snow until it became too muddy to pass easily. Also walked in the other direction along the rock wall created by the lava flow. We only encountered one other hiker on this trail, but we did see messages left on the trail.  

A little further west on the road we came to the Lava River Recreation National Recreation Trail. The lava fields here constitute one of the larger, more recent lava flows in the country. The landscape looked like a lunar scene. Amazingly there were many trees growing out of the rocky landscape. There was a .5-mile trail that wound through a small portion of the fields with interpretive signs that explained the geological phenomena. Lots of lava tubes and black rock.

We continued driving west until the road joined the main route 126. It was a long winding downhill route that added electric miles. We skirted Eugene, for the second time on the trip, and continued west on 126 to Florence. This route climbed up and then rolled down the Coastal range through a very green forest.

We arrived in Florence through the main part of the town in the early evening. Our hotel was the River H

ouse Inn and its name was very accurate. The Inn backed up against the Siuslaw River and overlooked the Siuslaw River Bridge carrying 101 over the river. The Bridge was opened  in 1936 and replaced a ferry service. It is 140  feet long and has a double leaf, bascule draw span with many decorative touches. It looked very regale when lit at night. Beyond lay the beginning of the great stretch of white sand dunes. All very scenic. The manager was very cooperative and directed us to an outdoor electrical outlet to charge up our car.   The room was large.

We walked a short distance to and around the restored, waterfront, Old Town area. Lots of restaurants, ice cream shops, antique shops and fish markets. It has a small working harbor with many fishing and pleasure boats moored there. We ate at a fish restaurant, International Seafood Restaurant, overlooking the harbor. In the past, this was a port that shipped out lots of lumber to the entire world. Now it seems to be primarily a tourist and retiree town, but there were not many people on the street in the evening. Passed on ice cream.

June 26, Bend OR.

June 26, 2017 Day 21 Bend, OR

No breakfast at our budget accommodations. Our first task was making a reservation for the Deschutes Brewery and tasting tour. Had to sign up for back to back tours at 1 and 2 since each tour only had one opening.

Our first stop was the local BoA office to try to get money transferred for my son’s home purchase. After waiting about 15 minutes for a bank officer, we were told that we had to make an appointment. We made an appointment for 3:30 and headed out for some sightseeing.

First stop was the High Desert Museum, about 3.5 miles south of Bend on route 97. This was a terrific museum with indoor and outdoor exhibits. It is an interactive museum that demonstrates how the west really was wild. Actors in costume played living history characters and were willing to stay in character while we peppered them with questions. So, we spoke with pioneers, boomtown widows, homesteaders and saw mill operators. We also saw a snake, reptile show and wandered along the mile-long nature trail. We really did not have enough time for this museum since we had to get to the brewery.

Got lost a few times getting to the brewery and parked on the street missing the charging station in the brewery parking lot. The brewery could accommodate both of us on the 1 tour. It was a terrific tour that offered an up-close glimpse of craft brewing.  I am amazed at the speed of the bottling process. The tour lasted over an hour and then we went to the tasting room.  A free fleet of four beers from their many selections. We bought a shirt for the grandson with the brewery name since he cannot drink with his parents. Also bought a six pack.

Then we drove to the bank where we were able to complete the home down payment transfer. Next was a little self-decided/directed tour of Bend. The city seems to be a very interesting and attractive place. As part of our tour we spent some time talking to a real estate agent. He said that the city, Oregon’s largest east of the Cascades, has experienced boom and bust real estate cycles. During the Great Recession, it experienced the nation’s steepest decline in housing prices. But now it is well into a boom cycle. It seems to have an enviable 4 season climate, lots of recreation opportunities, lots of breweries, downtown living and Mt. Bachelor, an underutilized gem that is 25 miles away and gets the first and last snow in the Cascades. Recently a satellite branch of Oregon University was opened.   

We parked just outside the compact downtown, 2 hours of free parking, and took a meandering walk around the downtown ending at the Post Office. We then walked back and checked out the Oxford Hotel. We had stayed at this chain in Portland, but this was a different level. It is a stylish boutique hotel with a sleek high ceiling lobby and an electric charging station in the garage (Two Tesla stations and one for the rest.). It advertised 5 pillow choices. We moved the car and headed west to Drake Park. This lines the Deschutes River and afforded a relaxing walk as the sun was setting. Watched a couple of community kickball games. Then we walked over to the Deschutes Brewery and Public House for some dinner and beer. This is Bend’s original brewpub and has 19 Deschutes are on tap.   Had some sweet and spicy mac and cheese and the classic Black Butte Porter among other items.

Back to the motel for a car charging and nighttime swim.    

June 25, Hood River to Bend, OR.

June 25, Day 20 – Hood River to Bend

Said good-bye to the very pleasant Westcliff Inn with a fully charged battery and printed papers for the D.C. home purchase courtesy of the hotel staff.

We went to the local Walmart’s and purchased some food, drink and clothes. We breakfasted at a river front park and then began the climb on route 35 out of the Columbia River Valley. That drained the car battery quickly.  We quickly entered Mount Hood National Forest with still snow-covered Mt Hood (named after a British naval captain who commanded the first European vessel that sailed up the Columbia river in the late 18^th century.) looming on the right. The road was lined with a lush green wall of trees and had numerous trailheads, the most prominent of which was the Pacific Crest Trail that crossed the road at the 4,157 ft., high Barlow Pass. At Government Camp, we turned south on route 26. Sadly, we had to pass on hiking or visiting Mt. Hood and touring Timberline Lodge. We drove through Madras, which next month would become a popular site to view the total solar eclipse, but frustrated many viewers with forest fires, and turned south on to route 97 to take us to Cove Palisades State Park. After many turns we descended into the crowded state park.

The park is centered around Lake Billy Chinook reservoir created by Round Butte Dam. There are three visually interesting canyons that have been formed by the Deschutes, Crooked and Metolius Rives that meet in the Park.

Lots of families and groups out picnicking and barbequing. There were many boats out on the water.  We had lunch under the shade at a picnic table. I went for a long swim after gingerly crossing the small pebble beach. After those activities, we took a drive around the reservoir across the dam and up to the mesa formed by the canyons.  

After we left the park late in the afternoon it took about an hour to drive to Bend. We stayed at the Cascade Lodge. An older place, large room and very affordable. Tootsie rolls at check -in. Owner gave us a room where he said we could charge up the car, but as in Alturas’ Red Rock Motel, the electrical system from the room was not up to it. I parked next to the soda vending machine and that electrical outlet could charge the car.

We made the short drive to downtown Bend for dinner. My spouse had a desire for pizza, so we went to Pizza Mondo, a cozy spot with NY style pizza. A sort of counter culture place it had good pizza and nice brownies for dessert.  I took a swim before going to sleep